Without the load management, I would hate to think what might have happened. They may be saving a few dollars per night by plugging into 30-amp service. And on that note, how do you know which you will need, 30 amp or 50 amp? I don't know much about aluminum wiring but I believe it requires special connections and the wire amp ratings are different. For instance, on 30-Amps, we may run our refrigerator and air conditioner at the same time but will refrain from using the microwave until the air conditioner is off. The girl at the reception desk thought I was crazy when I asked if there was a 30 amp because I didn't want to take the 50 amp away from somebody that really needed it. Sometimes certain areas are set aside with 50 amp service while others still have 30 and sometimes the entire park is switched over.
Locate the two probes in the two hot receivers, one probe to each receiver, and the reading should be 240 volts. My question is when you are in a campgroung that only has 30Amp service how do you hook up the unit. But, if there are loads running that reside on the other side of the breaker panel, then this is not true. Keep in mind that this assumes that you can utilize both of the two 50 amp poles effectively by balancing your load. If you had 20 amps running on each phase you would see zero amps on the neutral line. To avoid catastrophic damage to appliances, equipment and wiring circuits, and a real danger of fire, the amperage must be stepped down to 30 amps.
Electric heaters are another big draw. In the case of an electrical service it always tries to go between L1 and L2 whenever possible. Appliances with heating elements hair dryer, toaster, coffeemaker, etc. I see 120 Volts between X and W and Y and W and X and G and Y and G and zero 0 between W and G. The Surge Guard was doing it's job and assumed I was on a 30 amp outlet and using a dog bone.
Do the same for the frig and coffee maker. At this length you might consider using aluminum cable, which is somewhat cheaper for large sizes, although it definitely complicates the installation. You can also add a second adaptor to change the 30 amp down to a 20 amp plug if you have to but then all you're going to be able to do is keep the batteries charged and maybe run a few lights In the next section we'll talk about transfer switches and how they switch between shore power and a generator set. It gives you more than 30am but not the full 50 amps so you still need to be careful what you try use at the same time. Terry Thats pretty cool Terry but that would be only if the regular 110 outlet was running off a different circuit wouldn't it? By that time you should be figuring how much you are consuming in energy.
The N is the Neutral wire that goes to the neutral buss connection in your breaker panel. Across the 2 angled slots, it is 122. You said that there was a 30 Amp plug at your friends house. I too came off the dryer circuit, but I was smart enough to only draw the power from one side of the circuit, 120v. In this situation all of the power will be going down the neutral wire. There are no stupid questions 240v is 2 x120v a 50 amp plug has 4 pins, one ground, 2 opposing legs of 120v and a neutral same way the electric dryer or electric range in a house is wired. When you create electrical power there is always a pair of windings in the generator that power is taken from.
As a general guideline, an air conditioner might use 12-16 Amps, a microwave 8-13 Amps larger convection microwave 13 Amps and the fridge 5-8 Amps. The same principle applies to the design of electrical circuits in commercial buildings and campgrounds. In my case I was not aware there was a problem until standing near the refrigerator outside I heard it ignite. What do I need to do and will everything work properly? I just ran into the same thing the original poster did. Connect the red wire to one terminal on the outlet side of the breaker, and connect the black wire to the other terminal on the outlet side of the breaker.
Should not be a problem, lotsa folks do it. If you put a voltmeter across lines L1 and L2 you'll see 240 volts. For 50-amp service, however, the potential amount of power used — 12,000 watts, or 50 amps times 240 volts — represents more than three times as much possible demand as 30-amp service. When you do this you will have the same phase across L1 and L2 so there will be no 240 volts available. Typically you want to keep the voltage drop under 3% or so, although it somewhat depends on whether the voltage coming into your house is on the high or low end, and also what you're using the circuit for. Now here is where I ask to please pardon my stupidity, but I have read a lot about polarity, as well. I know that on most large 5th wheels and motor homes there is a 5o amp hookup.
So just how does this power flow? Microwave, inverter - charger, electric side of refrigerator, back tv, power supply for satelite, satelite receiver. I'm not too savvy on electrical matters, but I do know that 30 amp wiring and service panels would not safely handle a 50 amp current. Most 30 amp service will also have a 15 amp outlet. If this is the only thing running that current will then get drained back to the power utility via the service's neutral wire. On our rig we have a programmable battery charge rate that allows us to restrict the amount of power used by my battery charger. We use data about you for a number of purposes explained in the links below.
Electric current is measured in Amps. If everything was on one side you'd be pulling 40 amps on one phase, zero on the other, 40 amps on the neutral, and 40 amps on the electric meter so you try to balance things as much as possible. Connect the white wire to neutral bus-bar. In a normal set-up, you have a 50 amp rig, with a 50 amp breaker inside, which leads to a power cable rated for 50 amps, and ultimately to a 50 campground post. Aluminum wire is less conductive, so you'll use larger conductors than copper. Or you might opt for running your refrigerator on propane and you will still have enough power leftover for running your air conditioner and microwave at the same time.
If you have 50 amp load on one leg in your motorhome and 50 amp load on the other leg, the neutral wire will be trying to carry 100 amp load which is a major hazard for you. If you pull too many amps the circuit breaker will throw on the trailer or the shore box. Since it looks like the 120 is coming from the same side, which means the phases will not be balanced, is that a fire hazard on the coach side or the park's side? I have never used mine in 5 years. We sometimes carry a larger dorm frig and when cooler nights set in we use a quartz space heater. I have a question about the electrical service hookups in camgrounds. Now if you are like us and want to conserve propane you can use space heaters while plugged into the campground power instead of your furnace. Yes, technically the electron flow does reverse itself 120 times a second, but the power is flowing in one direction only.