All will use fan coils except there may be a few convectors in the mix too. Every furnace comes with a complete detailed installation manual with lots of pictures and diagrams! Although, running a water line to my current furnace and thru an exchanger would be great, don't know if it is affordable at this time. This coal heat allows you to take control of your heating costs for your home, business, shop, greenhouse. Randy can provide custom diagrams for other types of control setups as well upon request. Ideally the header and tubes F should stick out of the plenum. I'm not sure I follow what your system is like, compared to mine not surprising, since I'm really fairly simple minded.
Simply put them in place, the proper width apart Dimension C. The domestic side will not thermal siphon properly and will frequently air lock as well. I want to switch over to a furnace type stove because the 90 degree heat in the basement is a killer. Secure in place using pop rivets or self tapping screws. So, I'll only need a little bit of wood into the house for aesthetics I'd prefer from a fireplace than a woodstove.
Another problem is, depending on the system design, the duct usually gets smaller the farther it is from the furnace, and you would be hooking in on the small end. If possible, do this with the pipe laid out straight for ease of pulling. I installed an Englander wood furnace this very way a few years ago. Bury the underground insulated pipe below frost lines or just above water table level and keep underground as it enters the house. The fan only should come on, if not then there is problems with the control or fan that need to be fixed. Insert a clear pipe in a 5-gallon bucket fro the drain valve. I assume you are wanting to keep the gas furnace for backup heat? I hope some of you might get something out of this.
A limit switch by itself would only break the circuit to burner at 200 deg. Hookups to the domestic side must be connected to the drain and pressure relief ports. You basically have an outdoor wood burning water heater. As one comment mentions, the type of old stove you're describing heats by radiating, and it will be difficult to move that heat into the house somehow. Now, just cause I call it a fan control center, doesnt mean it has a fan. The figure below is for outside foot dimensions.
It's a description and pictorial of the Outside Wood Furnace I use to heat a house 1450 sq. I sit behind a computer most days so this is my relief. Where protective gloves and use caution! Some of them have different options. Would it be better to make a place for it in the basement? It goes through the heat exchanger first, which is kept hot by the incoming water to the furnace heat exchanger be it the one in your ductwork or another plate exchanger for a boiler application. Remember the furnace is designed to grab cool or room temperature air and in the last step, heat it and dump it into the duct, so you should attempt to keep that air from getting too hot.
Are you looking for a wood or coal burning furnace for sale? Input lines should be at the bottom, unless otherwise marked. My suggestion would be to hook up the wood stove to the return air and go to the gas furnace thermostat and turn the fan to the on position using your forced air furnace into a air handler: this should help keep the air being dumped into the furnace from getting too hot. Outdoor wood or gas furnaces are safer, cleaner and just as effective as an indoor furnace. If this works just wire the 2 tstat wires to these terminals but be sure to set the fan to low speed cause with that setup you will tend to pull a lot of heat out of coil and if you use R-G you will not have the fan limit switch to shut down fan when it gets too cool. However, if the boiler is located more than 100 feet away, you may experience inefficiency and heat loss.
Even then, it will require careful monitoring. Use adhesive backed foam tape used for insulating doors and windows to seal around the frame and foil tape to seal off the opening you make in the plenum heat for the heat exchanger. One needs to only maintain that the water temp stay around 170F, which would require more filling of the firebox and burn more wood obviously. So, just in case I lost you on that last part with many questions. There's probably a controller built to do this I just haven't looked for it yet. Close the other valve in the return line.
Hook t-stat to to red and green on fan control center and walk away. At the furnace: Black to W, White to R, and red goes to the black box then out and to G. The control in the pic is a Honeywell R8184G, strictly for control of the oil burner. Step 4: Dig a Trench for the Ductwork Use the tractor with backhoe to dig a trench for the ductwork. You're correct, there are many variables. But he has a fan control center in his control circuit, that may need to be re-configured.
The size and type of electric wire to be installed depends on the distance from the boiler to the house. Thanks for the duct work clearances! There is also the valve at the bottom of the hot line just before it goes in the hot water heat exchanger. That way the oil furnace can operate normally without manually switching between the two. You can fasten it in place with an L -shaped bracket. Measure the window so you can seal it off later with coated plywood and stripping.
I would be studying the installation manuals for ideas on how it could be hooked into your system. Repeat the procedure 4-6 times. The system is all operated from the movement with the flow of that little red pump which uses very little power. Make sure to seal around the corrugated pipe to prevent water from entering. My floor heat has a manual shut off.