Everything I did was equivalent to screwing on a nut. I just spent a week banging my head against a wall to learn this. Sorry to hear you had trouble with getting the regulator we used. While small portable grills are often designed to use disposable propane canisters, we have a whole list of reasons we object to doing that. We will be full timing it next year, and will have plenty of propane for the grill.
You can see below, we have a barrel and installed at the back of the garage with a gas quick connector for easy installation and removal. Removing disposable propane cylinders from the list of gear we need to keep on board saves space, and of course avoids running out of them, too the best way to exacerbate objection 1 above: rummage around for a fresh canister to finish cooking dinner, then find that you already used the last one. What we have done is gutted one regulator that goes on the roadtrip, running from the low pressure. Hope you make out okay with the Mr. We updated the parts we linked to after Casey pointed out that the quick disconnect we were using and the one you have is, technically, a low-pressure unit. Not only does it comes with an outstanding 5-year warranty 2-year for some parts , but buyers are sure to receive a top-of-the-line grill for an excellent value.
One question, I did buy the yellow tape but wondering the best way to check for leaks with all those connections. Some racks may come equipped with hoses and a changeover switch, to change the cylinder from which your propane system is drawing; if not, a changeover switch can be added. This was for Weber Q 320, think my Q100 is also not made to be disassembled. Turn off the valve on the propane tank, unscrew the hose that goes from the tank to the regulator at the regulator. As far as being worried about working around propane - you're really not. Is this an issues with grill regulator? You can watch that video here: Great idea as I have wondered the same. It took an hour to cook a burger.
I tried at different days and burned off the gas on different days and could always lite the stove and burn off the gas. Easy to store and easy to tote. Your project is not over until you have checked all your connections for gas leaks — you can use soapy water. I suggust that you not leave the hose connected when you are not cooking because the connection is a full tank pressure connection. I did return and found stove would indeed light. Thank you, Gentlemen, for the reply.
An unfortunate costly mistake by earlier adaptors. I am using a combustable gas sniffer, pretty reliable. As long as you are aware of that, as Casey mentioned, you should be good to go. I'm in the planning stages for the same setup, and this is actually an issue I hadn't thought about. So that means we are tapped into full-pressure-from-the-tank propane. Before going that route, I looked it up on Amazon.
I too have a coleman Road Trip, works great with the Marshall brass Extend-a-stay I put on the motor home. I have several sets of low pressure connectors as well. Yes, I guess there would be two regulators in the system if you used the standard conversion hose. Any task you perform or product you purchase based on any information we provide is strictly at your own risk. The 15 psi regulator has propane gas in it at 15 psi.
Checking on the web, I see there can be an issue if using a unregulated 20lb tank and converter hose. The trick to filling the tanks full is cool them in the refrigerator or freezer first, especially if the propane tank is not full. Then bought a hose which had the fitting to fit on my grill where the small tank would normally attach and then put the male end of the quick disconnect on the hose and it all works fine. I spent more time digging out the adjustable wrench I needed to tighten things up than I did actually installing the two adaptors. I have noticed that when I lite the burner, it will only go half way around, eventually making the full loop. Anyone doing this would want to shop for a low pressure version of the appliance or have the ability to modify their appliance to run on low pressure. As far as losing propane from the line when disconnecting the grill for storage, the quick-connects prevent that through the use of an internal valve, and the little gate valve on it.
We have a gas coach, so a bit harder to run the propane hose over the driveshaft and exhaust. I was thinking of moving the tee in front of the regular so I can hook up my Weber grill. Is there some kind of secret to getting this T adapter to not leak? If this is the case, connect the pigtail hose to the tank and tighten with a wrench. Third, there are the dual evils of waste the type that ends up in landfills and waste spending money unnecessarily. But when the time comes to throw some thick steaks on the grill, will your grates hold up to the job? The fuel for this unit is propane, which means you can travel with this anywhere and easily grab tanks on-the-go. Should the hose leak or rupture, a major loss of propane could cause an explosion. The small green propane bottles are a pain but good in a pinch.
I noticed that at 4:14 in the video you rotated the shut-off valve on the extended hose end to enable you to insert it through the hole just under your slide-out. There should of course be no propane coming out around the cap, since the valve is closed. Do I need a 15 psi regular to prevent oil build up or does the copper tubing prevent oil buildup? Said they always keep their valve open anyway. Thanks for the nice comment, Larry. I only ordered the 12 ft hose and just realized I may be grilling very close to the coach. Look for where the gas line exits the motorhome.